Match of the week

Hepple gin and venison tartare

Hepple gin and venison tartare

We think of gin even less than whisky as a pairing for food but with the incredible popularity of gin these days - and the need for the many new entrants to the field to create a distinctive image for their brand that could be about to change.

Last Friday I was tasting a new super-premium gin called Hepple from Northumberland with one of its creators, TV chef Valentine Warner. It’s based on juniper of course but handled slightly differently with three different distillation methods, green berries as well as riper ones along with bog myrtle, lovage, Douglas fir and citrus so it’s incredibly aromatic and herbal.

After we’d tasted its component parts we drank it as a gin and tonic (with Fevertree Naturally Light) and I had a hunch - based on gin’s compatibility with patés - it would go with the venison tartare on the menu at Wallfish Bistro where we were doing the tasting - and so it proved. I'm guessing you could also drink it neat though at 45% that might be a bit challenging. Maybe a martini.

You can currently buy it at Fortnum & Mason and drink it (cough) in my son Will’s Hawksmoor restaurants though it will be in wider distribution from early November.

Venison tartare with Mountford's The Rise 2009 pinot noir

Venison tartare with Mountford's The Rise 2009 pinot noir

As you can imagine I’ve been drinking a fair amount of pinot noir in New Zealand this week (it’s a hard life). In general Kiwis pair it with lamb for obvious reasons but the most striking match I came across was with a venison tartare at the North Canterbury forage, a fabulous event I’ll be writing more about in due course

The idea was to collect as many wild ingredients as possible then hand them over to a group of chefs to create a free feast paired with the local Waipara wines. Somewhere along the line someone had picked up a deer (I don’t think they actually managed to shoot it) and one of the chefs, Tom Hishon from Orphans Kitchen in Auckland used the heart and loin to make a tartare to which he added elderberries and served with a flaxseed cracker topped with the venison bone marrow.

We got the chance to taste some of the wineries' more mature pinots with it. The wine in my glass was a silky 2009 called The Rise from a winery called Mountford. I might have thought of pairing it with cooked or seared game but not with a tartare but both the dish and the match were sensational.

Incidentally the chefs cut wooden 'plates' to serve the dish from a handy tree. I suspect just as an excuse to use a chainsaw ....

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